Weekender Longflaps
IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP
An English style longflap saddlebag with modern design, classic styling, and external seams. Two massive boxy side pockets, one wide front pocket with a snapping flap, two flat internal pockets and two internal pen organizer slots, and a massive main compartment makes it easy to pack lots of different gear and keep track of where it all is. The flap on this bag is extra long so that large items can be lashed above the main compartment when needed. I also put two webbing loops under the flap for you to lash your gear to the flap, so that when you’re going in the main compartment you don’t have to juggle your tent or squeeze it between you legs while digging something out. When you don’t need all that extra flap, two brass snaps fold it in half. The locking g-hook hardware on the main straps lets you utilize all the long daisy chain webbing on the flap, so you can really cinch a half-full bag down or massively overstuff the main compartment and flap. The clips for holding the excess strap can hold the straps in a basic loop as shown, completely release the excess strap for the most expandability, or hold the straps when they are folded over multiple times for situations where dangling straps is a no-go.
The main compartment closes with what I’m calling a ditty closure, after the old style of sailor bags that closed with huge eyelets and rope. These days longflap bags usually close one of two ways: a light cinch or a roll top under a flap. A lightweight cinch goes around the top, helping keep small things from bouncing out and drawing the bag tight, but usually made of a lighter fabric and adding several seams. The roll top under a flap gives massive expandability and reduces seams but is designed to overstuff the same area a flap is capable of overstuffing. The ditty closure takes cues from both styles, being low-seam like a roll top but not requiring all the overlayed fabrics, and instead allowing the cinch to draw the edges of the main compartment under the flap for weather protection. The cord from the ditty top has it’s adjustor on the inside of the bag, and a center strap cinches the whole thing down.
I recommend using some kind of rack support with this bag, it invites overpacking. No problem though, it’s made with webbing loops along the bottom to hold it to a rack support, and the external dowel system can be counter tensioned to any rack to nearly eliminate sway.
SPECS
18L regular, 27L+ when expanded
Main compartment 14.5” wide, 8.5” high, 7.5” deep. 20” full width including side pockets
Main compartment expandable from 8.5” high to 15” high.
Two Voile Nano Straps included
Velcro One-Wrap straps for seatpost (1) and rack (2) included
Locking G-hook buckles
Oak dowel for rigid attachment
Two large boxy external pockets
Wide front pocket with flap and snap closure.
Two flat internal pockets, two internal pen organizers
D-rings for shoulder strap (not included)
Inner liner channel to insert foam or plastic stiffiner (not included)
Recycled high vis water-resistant liner
20oz (EPLX400)
If you’d like to expand the bags usability even more, it’s compatible with the Map Pouch, Floating Webbing Net, Net Harness, and Fancy Pouch.
If you don’t want me picking your cord color, specify what you want here.
Add at least two foam spacers to your order if you’d like to use this bag on your handlebars and not your saddle. Add 6 if you have a chunky stem, or want to keep all your hand positions.
Duck Canvas bags can be fully waterproofed with my waterproofing wax.
The inner liner channel in the main compartment can be used for a bring-your-own stiffiner. Not every bag or user should use a stiffiner, though, as they add abrasion to seams and hamper the bag’s ability to cinch. In an actual bike touring context your camping gear will usually serve as stiffiner enough. If you find yourself packing the bag in a way where you’re freequently dealing with sag though, such as half-full of heavier objects when running against your headtube, a stiffiner might help. I suggest simple EVA foam or corrugated plastic (cut against the grain so it folds with the curve of the bag.) I also suggest cutting your stiffiner to the size of the back and bottom panels only, leaving the front panel soft. This allows you to keep a good deal of the bag’s cinchability while still dealing with any sag.
IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP
An English style longflap saddlebag with modern design, classic styling, and external seams. Two massive boxy side pockets, one wide front pocket with a snapping flap, two flat internal pockets and two internal pen organizer slots, and a massive main compartment makes it easy to pack lots of different gear and keep track of where it all is. The flap on this bag is extra long so that large items can be lashed above the main compartment when needed. I also put two webbing loops under the flap for you to lash your gear to the flap, so that when you’re going in the main compartment you don’t have to juggle your tent or squeeze it between you legs while digging something out. When you don’t need all that extra flap, two brass snaps fold it in half. The locking g-hook hardware on the main straps lets you utilize all the long daisy chain webbing on the flap, so you can really cinch a half-full bag down or massively overstuff the main compartment and flap. The clips for holding the excess strap can hold the straps in a basic loop as shown, completely release the excess strap for the most expandability, or hold the straps when they are folded over multiple times for situations where dangling straps is a no-go.
The main compartment closes with what I’m calling a ditty closure, after the old style of sailor bags that closed with huge eyelets and rope. These days longflap bags usually close one of two ways: a light cinch or a roll top under a flap. A lightweight cinch goes around the top, helping keep small things from bouncing out and drawing the bag tight, but usually made of a lighter fabric and adding several seams. The roll top under a flap gives massive expandability and reduces seams but is designed to overstuff the same area a flap is capable of overstuffing. The ditty closure takes cues from both styles, being low-seam like a roll top but not requiring all the overlayed fabrics, and instead allowing the cinch to draw the edges of the main compartment under the flap for weather protection. The cord from the ditty top has it’s adjustor on the inside of the bag, and a center strap cinches the whole thing down.
I recommend using some kind of rack support with this bag, it invites overpacking. No problem though, it’s made with webbing loops along the bottom to hold it to a rack support, and the external dowel system can be counter tensioned to any rack to nearly eliminate sway.
SPECS
18L regular, 27L+ when expanded
Main compartment 14.5” wide, 8.5” high, 7.5” deep. 20” full width including side pockets
Main compartment expandable from 8.5” high to 15” high.
Two Voile Nano Straps included
Velcro One-Wrap straps for seatpost (1) and rack (2) included
Locking G-hook buckles
Oak dowel for rigid attachment
Two large boxy external pockets
Wide front pocket with flap and snap closure.
Two flat internal pockets, two internal pen organizers
D-rings for shoulder strap (not included)
Inner liner channel to insert foam or plastic stiffiner (not included)
Recycled high vis water-resistant liner
20oz (EPLX400)
If you’d like to expand the bags usability even more, it’s compatible with the Map Pouch, Floating Webbing Net, Net Harness, and Fancy Pouch.
If you don’t want me picking your cord color, specify what you want here.
Add at least two foam spacers to your order if you’d like to use this bag on your handlebars and not your saddle. Add 6 if you have a chunky stem, or want to keep all your hand positions.
Duck Canvas bags can be fully waterproofed with my waterproofing wax.
The inner liner channel in the main compartment can be used for a bring-your-own stiffiner. Not every bag or user should use a stiffiner, though, as they add abrasion to seams and hamper the bag’s ability to cinch. In an actual bike touring context your camping gear will usually serve as stiffiner enough. If you find yourself packing the bag in a way where you’re freequently dealing with sag though, such as half-full of heavier objects when running against your headtube, a stiffiner might help. I suggest simple EVA foam or corrugated plastic (cut against the grain so it folds with the curve of the bag.) I also suggest cutting your stiffiner to the size of the back and bottom panels only, leaving the front panel soft. This allows you to keep a good deal of the bag’s cinchability while still dealing with any sag.
IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP
An English style longflap saddlebag with modern design, classic styling, and external seams. Two massive boxy side pockets, one wide front pocket with a snapping flap, two flat internal pockets and two internal pen organizer slots, and a massive main compartment makes it easy to pack lots of different gear and keep track of where it all is. The flap on this bag is extra long so that large items can be lashed above the main compartment when needed. I also put two webbing loops under the flap for you to lash your gear to the flap, so that when you’re going in the main compartment you don’t have to juggle your tent or squeeze it between you legs while digging something out. When you don’t need all that extra flap, two brass snaps fold it in half. The locking g-hook hardware on the main straps lets you utilize all the long daisy chain webbing on the flap, so you can really cinch a half-full bag down or massively overstuff the main compartment and flap. The clips for holding the excess strap can hold the straps in a basic loop as shown, completely release the excess strap for the most expandability, or hold the straps when they are folded over multiple times for situations where dangling straps is a no-go.
The main compartment closes with what I’m calling a ditty closure, after the old style of sailor bags that closed with huge eyelets and rope. These days longflap bags usually close one of two ways: a light cinch or a roll top under a flap. A lightweight cinch goes around the top, helping keep small things from bouncing out and drawing the bag tight, but usually made of a lighter fabric and adding several seams. The roll top under a flap gives massive expandability and reduces seams but is designed to overstuff the same area a flap is capable of overstuffing. The ditty closure takes cues from both styles, being low-seam like a roll top but not requiring all the overlayed fabrics, and instead allowing the cinch to draw the edges of the main compartment under the flap for weather protection. The cord from the ditty top has it’s adjustor on the inside of the bag, and a center strap cinches the whole thing down.
I recommend using some kind of rack support with this bag, it invites overpacking. No problem though, it’s made with webbing loops along the bottom to hold it to a rack support, and the external dowel system can be counter tensioned to any rack to nearly eliminate sway.
SPECS
18L regular, 27L+ when expanded
Main compartment 14.5” wide, 8.5” high, 7.5” deep. 20” full width including side pockets
Main compartment expandable from 8.5” high to 15” high.
Two Voile Nano Straps included
Velcro One-Wrap straps for seatpost (1) and rack (2) included
Locking G-hook buckles
Oak dowel for rigid attachment
Two large boxy external pockets
Wide front pocket with flap and snap closure.
Two flat internal pockets, two internal pen organizers
D-rings for shoulder strap (not included)
Inner liner channel to insert foam or plastic stiffiner (not included)
Recycled high vis water-resistant liner
20oz (EPLX400)
If you’d like to expand the bags usability even more, it’s compatible with the Map Pouch, Floating Webbing Net, Net Harness, and Fancy Pouch.
If you don’t want me picking your cord color, specify what you want here.
Add at least two foam spacers to your order if you’d like to use this bag on your handlebars and not your saddle. Add 6 if you have a chunky stem, or want to keep all your hand positions.
Duck Canvas bags can be fully waterproofed with my waterproofing wax.
The inner liner channel in the main compartment can be used for a bring-your-own stiffiner. Not every bag or user should use a stiffiner, though, as they add abrasion to seams and hamper the bag’s ability to cinch. In an actual bike touring context your camping gear will usually serve as stiffiner enough. If you find yourself packing the bag in a way where you’re freequently dealing with sag though, such as half-full of heavier objects when running against your headtube, a stiffiner might help. I suggest simple EVA foam or corrugated plastic (cut against the grain so it folds with the curve of the bag.) I also suggest cutting your stiffiner to the size of the back and bottom panels only, leaving the front panel soft. This allows you to keep a good deal of the bag’s cinchability while still dealing with any sag.